Travel / The Bay

San Francisco

The Mission's burritos at 2am, fog over the bridge, hidden bars behind bookshelves, and the best bakery in the country.

San Francisco rewards the curious. The tourist version — Fisherman's Wharf, Alcatraz, the painted ladies — is fine, but the city really opens up when you start eating your way through the Mission, getting lost in Hayes Valley, and finding the bars that don't advertise.

The Mission District is the heart of what makes SF's food scene genuinely great: old-school taquerias next to experimental natural wine bars, Salvadoran pupuserias down the street from James Beard nominees. It's loud, warm, and entirely alive in a way that the rest of the city aspires to.

01

The Mission: Food & Drink

The epicenter of SF's food scene — balancing old-school Latino roots with new, artisanal energy.

Late Night

El Farolito

The Mission's most beloved late-night taqueria. Cash only, long line, absolutely worth it. The super burrito at midnight after a night out is a rite of passage. Order at the counter, find a table, eat standing if you have to.

Street Tacos

El Tonayense

The taco truck that launched a thousand arguments about whether SF has good Mexican food (it does). Al pastor, carne asada, carnitas — all excellent. Find the truck parked on Harrison Street. Cash, quick, perfect.

Creative

Mission Chinese Food

Danny Bowien's genre-defying American-Chinese restaurant that belongs to no category. Kung pao pastrami, thrice-cooked bacon, and dishes that somehow taste both completely original and deeply satisfying. One of SF's genuine culinary landmarks.

Italian

Flour + Water

Wood-oven Neapolitan pizzas and handmade pasta that genuinely compete with the best in Italy. The pasta tasting menu is exceptional. Make a reservation — walk-ins at the bar are hit or miss but worth attempting.

Pizza

Pizzeria Delfina

Thin-crust SF-style pizza with exceptional toppings and a short, well-edited menu. The fennel sausage pizza is the benchmark. Casual, loud, always good. The 18th Street location is the original and still the best.

Upscale

Foreign Cinema

Dinner in a former industrial space with films projected on the exterior wall. The food — California-Mediterranean with an exceptional raw bar — stands entirely on its own without the ambiance gimmick. Great for a special occasion.

Italian

La Ciccia

Sardinian cuisine done with deep authenticity. Bottarga, malloreddus, porceddu — a menu that's unwavering about what it is. Small, intimate, reservation-essential. One of the most underrated restaurants in the city.

American

Blue Plate

A neighborhood bistro on Mission Street that's been quietly excellent for years. American comfort food executed with real care: roast chicken, fresh pasta, good cocktails. The kind of place you want to live around the corner from.

02

Bakeries, Coffee & Sweet Stops

SF's pastry and coffee scene is legitimately world-class. These are the non-negotiables.

Bakery

Tartine Bakery

The country loaf here changed American bread baking. The morning buns (croissant dough, orange zest, cinnamon sugar) are one of the best things you can eat in San Francisco. Line out the door by 8am — worth every minute of the wait.

Pastry

Craftsmen & Wolves

The "Rebel Within" — a savory muffin with a soft-cooked egg hidden inside — is a SF classic. Everything here is technically ambitious and delicious. Multiple locations; the Valencia Street original has the best atmosphere.

Chocolate

Dandelion Chocolate

Single-origin bean-to-bar chocolate made in the Mission. The factory is open to visitors and the smell alone is worth the trip. The drinking chocolate and pastries in the cafe are exceptional on a cold SF afternoon.

Ice Cream

Mitchell's Ice Cream

A Mission institution since 1953. Ube, macapuno, and buko are the Filipino-influenced flavors that make this place unique. Always a line, always worth it. The outer Mission location is one of the neighborhood's enduring landmarks.

Ice Cream

Bi-Rite Creamery

Salted caramel, honey lavender, ricanelas — flavors that feel invented specifically to be perfect. Across the street from Dolores Park, which is the correct place to eat it. The line moves fast.

Ice Cream

Humphry Slocumbe

Weirder and more adventurous than Bi-Rite — Secret Breakfast (bourbon and corn flakes), Jesus Juice (red wine and Coca-Cola sorbet). The kind of ice cream shop that takes its flavors seriously. Multiple locations; the Ferry Building outpost is convenient.

03

Bars & Nightlife

From serious cocktail bars to dive bars with soul — SF's drinking scene has real character.

Cocktails

Trick Dog

One of the best cocktail bars in the country, full stop. The menu reinvents itself seasonally around a theme (past editions: Pantone colors, Chinese zodiac, SF Zine Fest). Creative without being annoying about it. Lines on weekends; go early or late.

Beer Garden

Zeitgeist

A legendary Mission dive bar with a massive outdoor beer garden. Cash only, no nonsense, long beer list, and a clientele that spans everyone from bikers to tech workers. Go on a warm afternoon, order a pitcher, stay longer than planned.

Whisky

Nihon Whisky Lounge

A serious Japanese whisky selection in a dimly lit, genuinely sophisticated space. The back lounge feels like a different city. Good for a late drink when you want something quiet and considered.

Speakeasy

Bourbon & Branch

Hidden behind an unmarked door in the Tenderloin with a password to get in. The Prohibition-era aesthetic isn't a gimmick — the cocktails are serious and the atmosphere is genuinely atmospheric. Reservations required; walk-ins go to the "Wilson and Wilson" detective agency side bar.

German

Suppenküche

Hayes Valley's beloved German restaurant doubles as one of the best casual beer bars in the city. Bavarian food, communal tables, and an extensive German and Austrian beer selection. The adjacent Biergarten next door is excellent in summer.

The Mission is the epicenter — balancing old-school Latino roots with new, artisanal energy in a way no other neighborhood quite manages.

04

Beyond the Mission

Other neighborhoods, activities, and spots that round out the city.

Views

Lands End Trail

The best urban hike in SF — a 3.5-mile coastal trail through Sutro Baths ruins, cypress forests, and clifftop views of the Golden Gate Bridge from an angle most visitors never see. Start at the Lands End Lookout Visitor Center.

Market

Ferry Building Marketplace

The Saturday farmer's market is one of the best in the country — Frog Hollow peaches, Acme bread, Hog Island oysters shucked to order at the dock. The building itself has excellent permanent tenants including Cowgirl Creamery, Blue Bottle, and Slanted Door.

North Beach

Original Joe's

A North Beach institution since 1937 (relocated to the current beautiful space in 2012). Old-school Italian-American: veal parmigiana, minestrone, stiff martinis. The bar is a great place to sit alone and eat well. Somehow both timeless and underrated.

Hayes Valley

Chez Maman

A tiny French bistro in Hayes Valley with a menu that changes daily. Moules frites, steak frites, croque madame — French classics executed without fuss or pretension. Perpetually packed; arrive early or expect to wait at the bar (which is not a bad outcome).

Waterfront

Waterbar

A seafood-focused restaurant right on the Embarcadero with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the Bay Bridge. The raw bar is superb. Go at sunset if you can. More of a special occasion spot, but the setting earns it.

Views

Sky-High Bars

Pricey but the views justify them: the View Lounge at the Marriott Marquis, the Top of the Mark at the Mark Hopkins, or Equinox at the Hyatt Regency. Best at dusk when the city lights up and the Bay goes golden.